The “oldest” and probably the most well-known flower market may be Hang Luoc market. As its name goes, Hang Luoc (Comb street) is the street in the old quarter of Hanoi where people used to make combs for sale. By the early 20th century, the craft gradually fell into oblivion and disappeared completely. Since then, Hang Luoc has been known to people for another feature: a Tet (lunar New Year) flower market.
Archived photo: Hang Luoc Tet flower market in the early 20th century
Hang Luoc flower market came into being more than a century ago. The market is famous for two things. First, it is held only once a year, from the 23rd to the 30th of the lunar December. Therefore, it is called the Tet flower market. Second, for a hundred years since its existence, the market was not held for only once, in 1947, as it was when Hanoi was at war.
Hang Luoc flower market used to cover all the length of Hang Luoc, Hang Chai, Hang Ruoi, Hang Ma, Hang Dong and Dong Xuan streets. As the major flower market of the capital city, whose people are famous for the subtlety of enjoyment, flowers sold at Hang Luoc market are more carefully chosen and are fresher than in other markets. Various kinds of flowers and blossoms are sold at the market, ranging from peach, rose, daisy, violet to narcissus, etc. Kumquat trees are worth mentioning as they bring the hope of a wealthy and healthy year.
Peach blossoms at Hang Luoc flower market
As it is held only once a year and for a short period of time, it is normally open till late at night and until the transition moment to the lunar New Year. Visitors to Hang Luoc flower market often “hang around admiring the flower market” rather than “go buying things” as in other markets. Therefore, people come to the market not only to buy the freshest flowers, but also to walk leisurely, admiring the flowers. Hanoians, especially the elderly, see coming to Hang Luoc flower market each spring as subtle fun. At the market, people can enjoy watching flowers and experiencing a distinctive cultural feature of a civilized city with a history of thousands of years. People are not in a hurry, but walk leisurely, watching everything around, occasionally dropping off at a florist’s for a look at beautiful flowers and blossoms. Sellers and buyers always offer each other new year greetings. Therefore, Hang Luoc flower market has always been an attractive address for visitors in their spring tours.
Compared with Hang Luoc, Quang Ba flower market has other different features. First, it is held all year round. Second, Quang Ba is the biggest wholesale flower market in the urban area of Hanoi. Quang Ba flower market still bears the features of a peripheral village of the city, not as ancient as Hang Luoc flower market. However, the two markets have one thing in common. That is both of them are favorite addresses for flower-lovers.
Normally, Quang Ba flower market is held from the midnight till 3am or 4am each day. The flowers sold there are from flower villages in the outskirts, from surrounding provinces, from Sapa, Da Lat, and even from China. For it is a wholesale flower market, flowers are often divided into bundles of 50 or 100 branches. However, traders also serve retail customers. Many types of flowers, be they costly or cheap, are displayed on shelves, in bins or stacked in lines. When Tet is drawing near, Quang Ba flower market is open almost around the clock and the market is always full of sounds of offering and bargaining.
Also located in the urban area of the city, Hoang Hoa Tham is different from Hang Luoc and Quang Ba flower markets. Apart from flowers and ornamental trees, the market also sells seeds, and pets. For Lac Long Quan flower market, visitors can tour all day, from the 20th to the 30th of lunar December. The market is for ornamental trees. Nhat Tan peach blossoms, kumquat trees and other ornamental trees are sold there.
Though newly-established, Tay Tuu night flower market is widely known among Hanoians. In ordinary days, the market is the place for many Hanoians to come and buy flowers. In fact, it is one of the biggest flower market in the North, attracting a lot of flower traders. They often buy hundreds of branches of flowers. At the end of the year, from lunar October onward, flower farmers in Tay Tuu start to prepare for the Tet flower crop. Daisy is the most popular flower in Tay Tuu. Tay Tuu daisies are big and strong and has brightly-yellow color. Apart form all kinds of daisy, fields of violet, gladiolus, dahlia, etc. make the atmosphere of Tet warmer.
Another flower market in the outskirts of Hanoi is Me Linh market which is famous with roses. The flower is suitable with the soil conditions in the commune of Me Linh. The market is held at night and breaks in the early morning. Therefore, it is advisable to go to the market at around midnight to get the most awesome and fresh roses and all sorts of flowers.
Tet flower markets have been held in Hanoi for hundreds of years now. More than just open-door markets, going to flower markets during Tet holiday has become a cultural feature, adding more colors to the picture of culture of the capital city.
Translated by Huu Duong