Born and raised in Hanoi’s Old Quarter, Hien’s childhood was filled with the delicate yet refined flavors of pho, bun cha (rice noodles and chargrilled pork patties), and bun thang (rice noodles, shredded chicken, thinly sliced omelet, Vietnamese ham (cha lua), dried shrimp, fresh herbs, and various aromatic spices). Those tastes became a part of her, though she never imagined she would one day devote her life to culinary art.
In 1967, at the age of 13, she entered the first course of the Military Art School (present Military University of Culture and Arts). Later, she became a dancer of the Tri-Thien Liberation Army Art Troupe, bringing songs and dances to inspire soldiers on the battlefield during the resistance war against the U.S. imperialists. After national reunification, she continued to serve in the military until her retirement.
During her retirement years, Hien has poured her heart into preserving and promoting Hanoi’s culinary quintessence through bun oc nguoi. She refined recipes handed down from her grandmother and mother, while introducing new ingredients and techniques to create her own distinctive flavor.
“Hanoians in the old days used not only rice-washing water but also fermented cooked rice alcohol to soak snails and remove their smell,” she shared, adding that “it both cleans the snails and gives the meat a subtle sour-sweet flavor with a fragrant aroma.” Hien also uses Himalayan pink salt instead of table salt, enhancing the dish’s richness while adding health benefits for diners.
A bowl of bun oc nguoi features a clear broth with several snails, glistening oil on the surface, and chili paste. It is served with small, fine rice noodles known as bun con hen. “You must eat slowly to feel the fragrance, creaminess, spiciness, and sourness of each ingredient. Only then can you truly understand writer Vu Bang’s words in Delicacies of Hanoi that this dish ‘has reached the pinnacle of the Hanoian art of fine dining,’” artisan Nguyen Thi Hien said softly.
Cao Kim Long from Kim Lien ward, a regular customer, shared, “Every time I bring friends here, they are amazed by the flavor of bun oc nguoi. Each ingredient blends perfectly in both quantity and quality. I love the dish and admire the cook’s dedication.” Long said that Hien is enthusiastic, hospitable, gracious, elegant which embody true Hanoian charm.
Encouraged by diners’ appreciation and driven by her love of culinary art, Hien is determined to preserve and spread not only bun oc nguoi but also the cultural beauty of Hanoi itself. For years, she has offered free classes to teach children and women how to make the dish, from selecting ingredients to preparing it. She has also instilled the gentle manners of Hanoians in them.
With her talent and devotion, in April 2025, the former military art troupe performer Nguyen Thi Hien was honored with the title culinary art and culture artisan of Vietnamese trade village in the field of traditional food preparation and culinary training.
Translated by Mai Huong